The road follows a mountain ridge, not far from the top, dipping and curving with the contours of the mountains. We are just past the peak, descending into the valley. Though the slope is gentle, it’s enough to keep us rolling, and despite the thin air, I no longer need to fight to keep the bike moving. As the road straightens out a bit, I dare cast a glance to the left and the whole landscape opens up. Beyond the barrier at the edge of the road, the mountain side slopes steeply downwards to the valley below, then rises skywards again on the other side, forming another ridge on the opposite side. Behind that, range upon range of imposing mountains, a multitude of peaks that look like they are floating in the mist, each layer becoming more and more diffuse until they disappear beyond the horizon. It is spectacularly beautiful but only last a moment, then I have to direct my gaze at the road again.