Renegade Writings

The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

Month

May 2014

Road 54, noon

As soon as the road entered the mountains the fog descended. As we climb higher it gets thicker and I find myself unconsciously slowing the car down as visibility shrinks to just tens of meters. I hunch forward over the steering wheel and peer into the milky nether, searching out the curve of the road and the least sign of an oncoming car. My focus is heightened partly from fear of flying off the road, partly from excitement at the risk. My wife beside me is scared but the sense of danger has me smiling.… Read the rest

Snaefellness in the rain

Today has been somewhat disappointing. The plan was to see as much as we could of Snaefellness peninsula but it has been raining heavily all day and even when it cleared up for a while, everything was so shrouded in mist we couldn’t see much.

In order to stay out of the rain for a bit we started by going to the Shark Museum in Bjarnarhofn, a small place that showcases the history of fishing for Greenland Shark and the process of fermenting it to be able to eat it. The reason the meat has to be fermented is because … Read the rest

Arrival on Sneafellness peninsula

Today has been yet another driving day, we left our little guest house quite early, and drove westward through gently rolling hills of green pastures. Since we had time we made a detour out to a sightseeing spot called Borgarvik, an old kind of fortification on a cliff top, and not far from there, a strange cliff formation in the sea.

We made a quick stop for lunch then drove on for … Read the rest

Road 54, 3:19 pm

All morning we drove through relatively tame terrain, rolling hills of green pastures and fields, the mountains in the background less steep than normal, without snow on the tops and even some swatches of green climbing the slopes. Since around noon, the surrounding landscape has gotten increasingly wild, the pastures giving way to yellowish moss, a few crags and small waterfalls here and there. Then the crags started increasing in number, sprouting large cliffs of stones-like pillars on both sides and the ground becoming covered in brown shrubs with shifting green leaves. We finally started climbing along the edge of … Read the rest

To the west

Today has been another driving day. We left Lake Myvatn in the morning, heading westward making a couple of stops along the way. The first stop was Godafoss or God’s Waterfall in English; the name is quite appropriate, but it also makes me wonder, if this is what a relatively unknown place on Iceland has to offer, how mighty is not something like the Niagara falls.

We drove on through very gently sloping fields and pastures, a fjord a little way off and as always mountains in … Read the rest

Second day in Myvatn

Today we kept exploring the area near lake Myvatn, starting by driving back up to the highlands towards mount Krafla. When we were getting close to our destination we started seeing cars parked along the side of the road and soon found out why. The road simply ended right there in a snowbank, the rest of it covered in snow. No matter, we parked by the road just like everybody else, then walked the rest of the way. The place we went to was another crater, this one partially covered in snow and the bottom filled with turquoise water frozen … Read the rest

Myvatn nature bath, 3:58 pm

The sky is clear with a few tufts of cloud, the air smells of sulfur but there is a cool breeze blowing. All around is the dramatic Icelandic landscape, barren mountains and all. The water II’m sitting in has a strange color, a kind of milky blue that is almost luminescent. The water is comfortably warm and relaxes the body. Sitting here soaking in a hot spring, looking out over the landscape is just perfect.

Read the rest

To lake Myvatn

We left our little cottage mid morning, picked up a hitchhiker just after getting on the main road, and headed west up onto the highlands (all be it the outskirts of the highlands) . Up there the land is flat and covered in snow for longer and the air is cooler, but it felt less cold than when we were caught in the wind and the rain on the south coast.

After a short stop to snap some photos we kept driving. Just before we got into the lake … Read the rest

Fjords and gravel roads

Today has been a day of driving, but in Iceland that’s not necessarilya bad thing. Going along the countryside roads and seeing this fantastic landscape in all its glory from the comfort of the car is great. We really only stopped a few times to stretch our legs and snap a few shots of the spectacular view.

We took the coastal road, zigzaging as it follows the line of the fjords. The mountains tumble into the sea and the road hugging the edge all the way. It seems people universally find mountains and water to be beautiful and with such … Read the rest

Road no. 1, 4:27 pm.

We’ve just left the coastal road and turned back onto the main road. We climb higher up the mountains and then, as we come around a tight corner, the road opens up into a sort of narrow water chute valley, the road running along the valley floor and the sides rising gently just meters from the road. There is snow coming down from the peaks both right and left, flowing down the slope almost all the way to the banks of the road, big blotches of bare earth here and there in a sort of gigantic camouflage pattern. The sun … Read the rest

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