The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

Category Motorbike

The Big Indochina Trip: Ninh Binh to Hanoi

The goal of the day was to reach Hanoi, but it’s only 90 kilometers from Ninh Binh so we could take things easy. What we missed when we went to Tam Coc was Hang Mua,  a temple high up on one of the karsts overlooking the river. Spending the morning there was a given choice. Though the karsts are not particularly tall, they are steep and the climb up was pretty hard work with the sun beating down on you. Once at the top though, that hard work pays off because the view of the landscape below is pretty spectacular. … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: from Cat ba to Ninh Binh 

After two wonderful days on Halong bay it was time to leave. The guy at the tour company told us the ferry back to Tuan Chua left at 8 am, 11 am or 3 pm. We figured we could take it easy in the morning and slowly make our way to the ferry terminal at the other side of the island and catch the ferry at 11. It took us a bit longer than expected to pack our stuff however, so when we left the hotel we were in a bit of a rush. When we were just a few … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: Ho Chi Minh highway to Phong Nha national park 

Today I didn’t have time for any real sightseeing, instead I hit the road and headed for Son Trach,  a small village that works as a kind of hub for people visiting Phong Nha national park. By the main highway it’s fairly short and quick but I decided to take the scenic route i.e the Ho Chi Minh highway. 

Getting there took a bit of trouble because the road was crossed in  several places by the remains of mud slides and rock falls. 

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Ho Chi Minh highway, 12:25 pm

Finally I am here, the real Ho Chi Minh highway. The disappointment I felt two hours earlier is gone, now all I feel is the excitement of being on this road, it’s smooth, it’s curvy in just the right way, and when the jungles along the side open up you get beautiful mountain vistas. It’s everything I hoped it would be.… Read the rest

Road QL15, 11:40 am

The paved road just ended and it turned into a bumpy, rutted mud track. This is, by far, the absolute  worst road I’ve ever been on. My wheels keep slipping and sliding in the mud and I move forward at walking speed, constantly on edge from the fear of falling over. I manage a glance at the GPS, 11 more kilometers until the turning point; it will be hell if it’s going to be like this all the way.… Read the rest

Ho Chi Minh highway, 10:35 am

The road is straight, relatively smooth and on both sides nothing but jungle. A quick glance at my GPS tells me I am on the Ho Chi Minh highway, that legendary road for bikers in this country and I am… a little bit disappointed. Sure, smooth roads and jungles are nice but I have read such good things about it and it doesn’t live up to the hype. I’ve been on equally smooth roads with much nicer views in other parts of the country,  the road between Dalat and Nha Trang comes to mind. Oh well, I shall keep going, … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: Imperial Hue

When I  woke up this morning it was raining heavily. I waited until it had settled down a bit then got on the bike and headed to my next goal, Hue city. 

I’m sure I’ve said it before but it  bears repeating, this is a really gorgeous country to ride through. Sure,  sometimes you will be on the noisy and crowded expressway racking up the miles, but as soon as you get into the countryside,  the landscape becomes really photogenic. So, despite the rain, I stopped a few times to take pictures 

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The Big Indochina Trip: hauling ass to Hoi An

Before this trip started I made a rule for myself that I should  not ride more than 200 kilometers a day. Today I broke that rule by a large margin. You see, in order to get more time in Hoi An and Hue I needed  to get there as fast as possible, so instead of staying over in some beach town I decided to go as far north as I could in a day, hoping I could reach Hoi An by nightfall. My backup plan,  in case I got too tired, was to take a hotel in Quang Ngai.

 I … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: from Dalat to the coast 

There are a few sights inside Daly city but the main draw is the surrounding nature. The general recommendation for seeing said nature is to join an easy rider motorcycle tour, but since I have my own bike I decided to combine the motorbike tour with the ride to my next stop for the night. Before setting off however, I went sightseeing in the city, starting with Hang Nga Crazy House. It’s a building with very unique architecture and while the architect still lives there you can walk around and explore it.

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Coastal road South of Tuy Hoa, 5 pm

I’ve seriously had it with this incessant rain, like Samuel L Jackson in Snakes on a plane would have said: enough is enough! It spoils the fun of riding by making the road slippery, it ruins any photo ops offered by the gorgeous scenery I’m passing, but worst of all, I’m getting soaked despite my rain gear. It is utterly and completely miserable.… Read the rest

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