The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

Tag South East Asia

The Big Indochina Trip: caving in Phong Nha 

Phong Nha national park is home to the largest cave in the world, Hang Son Doong. It would be extremely cool to go there but it takes seven days and costs 3000 USD per person which is just not feasible for me right now. There are plenty of other caves in the area however, and I visited two of them.

The Dark Cave is set up as an adventure, they kit you out with a life jacket, a hard hat with a light on it, and a climbing harness then send you off with a guide. The trip starts with … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: Ho Chi Minh highway to Phong Nha national park 

Today I didn’t have time for any real sightseeing, instead I hit the road and headed for Son Trach,  a small village that works as a kind of hub for people visiting Phong Nha national park. By the main highway it’s fairly short and quick but I decided to take the scenic route i.e the Ho Chi Minh highway. 

Getting there took a bit of trouble because the road was crossed in  several places by the remains of mud slides and rock falls. 

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The Big Indochina Trip: Vinh Moc tunnels and abandoned amusement park

Hue is very close to the old demilitarized zone so there are a few military remnants in the area. The most interesting for me were the Vinh Moc tunnels, about 100 kilometers north of Hue, where an entire fishing village went under ground. On the way out, I happened upon a big communist monument of some kind. There wasn’t any information in English available but it looked cool with the big flag and everything. I will say though that the 40000 Dong entrance fee was a bit steep for a five minute visit.

The communist monument 

Compared to the Cu … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: Imperial Hue

When I  woke up this morning it was raining heavily. I waited until it had settled down a bit then got on the bike and headed to my next goal, Hue city. 

I’m sure I’ve said it before but it  bears repeating, this is a really gorgeous country to ride through. Sure,  sometimes you will be on the noisy and crowded expressway racking up the miles, but as soon as you get into the countryside,  the landscape becomes really photogenic. So, despite the rain, I stopped a few times to take pictures 

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The Big Indochina Trip: Hoi An and My Son 

Hoi An is a very relaxed city, compared to Ho Chi Minh it barely counts as a city at all. The main draw is the ancient town, a fairly large area of small, old houses that counts as a UNESCO world heritage. It’s a bit touristic as almost all the houses have been turned into shops and restaurants, and most of the people you meet there are foreigners, but it’s very atmospheric none the less. I spent a good portion of my first day in Hoi An just walking around randomly in the old town. It felt really nice to … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: hauling ass to Hoi An

Before this trip started I made a rule for myself that I should  not ride more than 200 kilometers a day. Today I broke that rule by a large margin. You see, in order to get more time in Hoi An and Hue I needed  to get there as fast as possible, so instead of staying over in some beach town I decided to go as far north as I could in a day, hoping I could reach Hoi An by nightfall. My backup plan,  in case I got too tired, was to take a hotel in Quang Ngai.

 I … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: from Dalat to the coast 

There are a few sights inside Daly city but the main draw is the surrounding nature. The general recommendation for seeing said nature is to join an easy rider motorcycle tour, but since I have my own bike I decided to combine the motorbike tour with the ride to my next stop for the night. Before setting off however, I went sightseeing in the city, starting with Hang Nga Crazy House. It’s a building with very unique architecture and while the architect still lives there you can walk around and explore it.

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The Big Indochina Trip: Can Tho floating market

The main draw in Can Tho is the Cai Rang floating market. I think it’s possible to do a one day hit and run tour from HCMC but the market opens before sunrise so to get the most of it you should be there early. You also need a boat to be able to see the market up close, I took the easy way out and booked a tour via my hotel. As it turned out it was just me, the guide and the driver in a small wooden skiff with an outboard. Our boat was a bit slower than … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: Cu Chi Tunnels then off to the Mekong delta 

When I woke up today it was pouring rain, a real monsoon shower, but I packed up my stuff anyway and waited for the rain to let up. Once it did I set out to the main goal of the day, the Cu Chi Tunnels. This is a vast network of tunnels used by the Vietnamese to hide, first from the French and later from the Americans. According to the guide they are about 250 kilometers long and they even reach Cambodia. 

It sounds really cool when you read about it and I was really excited to go there, I … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: Preparations

For several years now I’ve had a dream to go traveling in southeast Asia and, being a fan of independent travel, I wanted to do it the way the locals travel, that is by motorbike. After many years of dreaming about it I finally decided it’s time I actually do it, so I took three months leave from my job and bought some flight tickets. I will try to post at least something every day of the journey, but first, some things about planning and preparation.

The route:

I don’t have any exact plan, all I know for certain is that I … Read the rest

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