The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

Tag Motorbike

The road into Laos, 9:35 am

I’ve made it! It took me three border crossings, four days and several hundred kilometers on the bike but im finally in Laos and I managed to get my motorbike across too. Sure the weather is bad, sure the road is bumpy, but I don’t care, all that matters is that I made it.… Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: the workaround 

I didn’t want to overstay my visa so the first step for getting the bike into Laos was extending it. I know people from some countries, among them Sweden, can enter Vietnam on a visa exemption for fifteen days. I called to make sure that this would be possible for me and they confirmed that this applies at all border crossings and I can get it as long as it was more than 30 days since my last visa exempt entry. So, the day after getting rejected at the border I got on the bus headed for the nearest town … Read the rest

Road QL217, 2:46 pm 

I’m on a small road running along a ledge above the river, jungle clad mountains sloping down towards the greenish brown water. The road curves it’s way forward, following the flow of the water. Normally it wouldn’t be possible to ride at significant speed on this kind of road, but it’s just straight enough and I’m pushing 75 kilometers an hour. This kind of speed on this kind of road is exhilarating, I let out a shriek of joy.… Read the rest

Road AH13, 5:16 pm

The light is fading fast; the sky, though free of clouds, is not as bright blue as it was a few minutes ago, and the road lays in shadow. I take a quick glance in the rear view mirror, see the road unfold behind me and in the distance, the hazy outline of the city with the mountains behind it. And there, over the silhouetted peaks, the sky is blazing orange, shifting into pink at the edges. It’s only a glimpse, I have to turn my eyes back to the road, but for a moment I feel a kind of … Read the rest

The big Indochina trip: failing to reach Laos

The good thing with not making any plans is that you have the freedom to do what you want. The bad thing about not planning is that you can get into trouble which is exactly what has happened now. My idea was to ride down to Dien Bien Phu and cross the border to Laos from there. The night before leaving Sapa I googled for a bit and found out that it might not be possible to bring the motorbike across at Dien Bien Phu but that information was at least a year old and I figured things might have … Read the rest

Tram Ton pass, 9:00 am

I’ve been riding through the mist and drizzle all day and then, just as I reach the highest point of the pass, I spot a patch of blue sky up above. Moments later, the whole sky opens up and I can see for miles, the mountains rising into the mists on all sides, the slopes down towards the valley below clad in verdant green against the clear blue sky. In the middle of this stunning vista is a sea of clouds, pristine white foam lapping the mountain sides… What a view.… Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: The road to Sapa

There is a highway connecting Hanoi with Lao Cai, the city closest to Sapa, which could get us there in about five hours. I knew we couldn’t get on the highway with the motorbike but looking at Google maps I saw a normal road that looked to be more or less next to it. I figured with a few stops along the way we could get there in maybe six or seven hours; a long ride but not impossible.

It was quite chaotic getting out of Hanoi but eventually we made it without too much trouble. Out on the main … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: More caves and then the night bus

I normally don’t get hung over when traveling, I don’t know why but seems to work whenever I’m abroad. Yesterday I relied on this a bit too much and partied a bit too hard with some friends from the hostel. I had planned to take the bike and just ride around in the national park but when I woke up I was in no state to ride a motorbike. So, I skipped that and joined another cave tour instead. The Phong Nha cave is up the river from the village so the tour starts with a 45 minute boat ride … Read the rest

Ho Chi Minh highway, 12:25 pm

Finally I am here, the real Ho Chi Minh highway. The disappointment I felt two hours earlier is gone, now all I feel is the excitement of being on this road, it’s smooth, it’s curvy in just the right way, and when the jungles along the side open up you get beautiful mountain vistas. It’s everything I hoped it would be.… Read the rest

Road QL15, 11:40 am

The paved road just ended and it turned into a bumpy, rutted mud track. This is, by far, the absolute  worst road I’ve ever been on. My wheels keep slipping and sliding in the mud and I move forward at walking speed, constantly on edge from the fear of falling over. I manage a glance at the GPS, 11 more kilometers until the turning point; it will be hell if it’s going to be like this all the way.… Read the rest

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