Renegade Writings

The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

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Vis town and bay

After a pleasant ferry trip across azure waters and past lush islands, we arrived on Vis in the small town with the same name.

View of the archipelago from the ferry

We walked around randomly for a while until a man who did not speak English offered us a room. I admit I was suspicious at first but it turned out to be alright. Dumping our things we headed down to a nearby slipway into the water so I could finally go for a swim. It felt wonderful.

Finally going for a swim

With evening approaching we did a bit … Read the rest

To the islands.

Compared to the mild temperatures and overcast skies of the last two days, today is absolutely blazing hot. We haven’t really done much today except buy some boat tickets and stroll around basking in the sun. At the moment I am sitting on the ferry to Vis, a small island off the coast, waiting for the boat to leave harbor.

So, let me recap some of the things we did yesterday that I didn’t have time to write about in my previous post. The bus from Zagreb took about five hours including a short lunch break and brought us  from … Read the rest

Ferry from Split to Vis, 3:58 pm

There is something about islands, or rather something about the intersection of land and water that is so personified by islands, that captures the human eye. Post cards from all over the world are full of that special magic that is a beach, a harbour or a cliff leading down to the ocean. And here I am on a ferry from the Croatian mainland sailing towards a far away island, moving leisurely through an archipelago with large islands off to both sides. The perfect moment then to snap that post card picture, or so one would think. In fact, due … Read the rest

Split and the Romans

Yesterday we took a long distance bus to the coastal town Split. We got some really good views along the way from the bus and I tried to describe it all as a Frozen Moment.

When we got there we found a hotel by just walking around randomly then set about exploring the main attraction: Diocletian’s palace. I tried to take picture but it was hard to show it in a good light so once again I ended up freezing the moment.

Diocletian’s Palace from the outside with lots of shops and restaurants
The square inside Diocletian’s Palace

Split Read the rest

Split cathedral 4:58 pm

I am standing on a small, circular, walled in square among a bunch of other people. Towards the middle of the square is a small group of men standing in a half moon shape. They wear white shirts, black trousers and red girdles and beside them is a sign proclaiming that they sell CD’S. A few moments pass then they start to sing, a traditional Croatian song sung by a five man choir. The sound is deep and resonant, rising along the circular walls towards the perfectly round hole high above us, reverberating with a force and a clearness of … Read the rest

The Riva, Split, 4-ish pm

I have been in Split but an hour or so but already I am in full tourist mode, camera in hand snapping pictures of this and that but alas, the view here is one of those that does not lend itself to the art of photography. That’s when it hits me, I have a way to solve this dilema. The scene in front of me is that of the sea side promenade in Split, turquoise waters to one side, a wide pedestrian streak in the middle and fashionable shops and cafes on the other. What makes this sea front special … Read the rest

Road to Split, morning/noon

This is not so much a frozen moment as a frozen stretch of time. Starting off in central Zagreb, our highway bus trundled out of the city towards the rolling hills of the Croatian inland. Dark green in the distance with lighter shades up close, mingled with the yellow of sun burnt grass, dotted with the orange roofs and light colored walls of small villages. As we passed the hills we got closer to the low, forrested mountains and darker skies. Passing through endless tunnels we were finally spit out on the other side, blue skies overhead and a dazzling … Read the rest

On the ground in Zagreb

Due to time constraints, I have once again been forced to bend (my own, arbitrary) rules for land travel. Leaving home around 10 in the morning, Yini and I took a plane from Copenhagen down to the capital city of Croatia, Zagreb.  Since we did not want to rush (and spend our vacation stressed out)  we decided to stay here for the night.

Having found our hostel we took a tram (without knowing how to pay) to the train station and from there took a stroll through a long, stretched out park full of grandiose buildings, fountains and statues. Some … Read the rest

Strandhagen 9:10 pm

The sky overhead is dark with clouds, a thin veil of ragged grey covering pale summer night blue.  A heavy cloud cover hangs over the strip of land on the other side of the bay as well, but in the middle is a band of clear sky.  The big orange ball of the setting  sun hangs over the western horizon, casting its rays beneath the clouds; like God shining his flashlight on a world clad in shadow. It illuminates the tree tops and laces the tall grass and bushes with color. The streaks of vivid color in the midst of … Read the rest

The window, 10:20 pm

Swedish summer nights are very nearly endless, the light usually not fading until about eleven, but tonight is different. It is still light enough to see by but there is a darkness to the sky that makes it feel as if light is fading from the world altogether. Dark, brooding rain clouds mingle with a thick, light grey soup that blocks out the sun, tinged purple by nonexistent sunset and orange from pointless street lights below. Rain falls heavily on the ground, creating streams and pools on the paths beneath my window. The world is lifeless and empty except for … Read the rest

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