The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

Category Travel experience

Ferry from Split to Vis, 3:58 pm

There is something about islands, or rather something about the intersection of land and water that is so personified by islands, that captures the human eye. Post cards from all over the world are full of that special magic that is a beach, a harbour or a cliff leading down to the ocean. And here I am on a ferry from the Croatian mainland sailing towards a far away island, moving leisurely through an archipelago with large islands off to both sides. The perfect moment then to snap that post card picture, or so one would think. In fact, due … Read the rest

Split cathedral 4:58 pm

I am standing on a small, circular, walled in square among a bunch of other people. Towards the middle of the square is a small group of men standing in a half moon shape. They wear white shirts, black trousers and red girdles and beside them is a sign proclaiming that they sell CD’S. A few moments pass then they start to sing, a traditional Croatian song sung by a five man choir. The sound is deep and resonant, rising along the circular walls towards the perfectly round hole high above us, reverberating with a force and a clearness of … Read the rest

The Riva, Split, 4-ish pm

I have been in Split but an hour or so but already I am in full tourist mode, camera in hand snapping pictures of this and that but alas, the view here is one of those that does not lend itself to the art of photography. That’s when it hits me, I have a way to solve this dilema. The scene in front of me is that of the sea side promenade in Split, turquoise waters to one side, a wide pedestrian streak in the middle and fashionable shops and cafes on the other. What makes this sea front special … Read the rest

Road to Split, morning/noon

This is not so much a frozen moment as a frozen stretch of time. Starting off in central Zagreb, our highway bus trundled out of the city towards the rolling hills of the Croatian inland. Dark green in the distance with lighter shades up close, mingled with the yellow of sun burnt grass, dotted with the orange roofs and light colored walls of small villages. As we passed the hills we got closer to the low, forrested mountains and darker skies. Passing through endless tunnels we were finally spit out on the other side, blue skies overhead and a dazzling … Read the rest

Linna Hall 2:39 pm

We are exploring a big, hulking soviet relic of some kind, an immense concrete structure, built in several tiers, wide staircases leading up to and over the roof. A plaque tells us that this is Linna hall, a concert hall, built in the 80,s but the shape makes it look more like a modern fortress. It has been badly run down over the decades, broken tiles and concrete blocks everywhere and many of the sides are now covered in colourful graffiti in contrast to the all-pervading grey of the concrete. The place has been closed down completely, steel gratings barring the way, … Read the rest

Hill of crosses 10:38 am

Photos cannot truly describe this place, there is simply too much of it. Crosses, thousands and thousands of crosses, all in a big jumble. Big crosses, small crosses, iron crosses and wooden ones. Two small hills in the middle of nowhere completely covered by them. Some are simple some are ornate, the  smaller ones hanging off bigger ones, crosses all around. Intermingled with the multitude of crucifixes are Jesus status and other religious symbols. That the weather is slightly cloudy doesn’t matter, the experience itself overshadows such trivial matters. My words however, just like a photo, are insufficient to describe … Read the rest

Kronoborg Castle 2:59 pm

There is something rotten in the state of denmark…it is raining so hard that visiting hamlets old castle is less than fun. We are standing in the tunnel through the second battlement, cowering from the rain. The vaults overhead are white except the last one before entering the castle grounds, which has been painted a bright orange; through its opening we see the big main building, yellowish grey masonry with a maroon roof and a high, ornamented copper spire tapering to a point, piercing the milky sky. I wish I could se more of this famous fortress but it will … Read the rest

Mountain just outside Seoul 3:15 pm

I am definitely on the edge of the city now. I am walking on a small dirt path on the forest clad mountain. The nearest civilisation can be seen some way below. I am forced to walk on the outside of the wall now, the reason being that some soldiers stopped me, apparently there is a base or something up here. The battlements look really impressive from below so I can sort of understand that they still use the wall for some purpose. So, I keep walking along as the wall as it winds further up in the mountains.… Read the rest

Near Dongdaemun 1:54 pm

I am walking along the ancient city wall as it climbs a mountain ridge at the edge of down town Seoul. I am walking through a sort of residential park with a playground and some benches, to the right and behind me is the city sprawl with its busy streets and skyscrapers, to the left an area of small, dilapidated houses. If I stop to take a photo it gets cold quickly but since it’s up hill I warm up just as quickly.  Standing here writing this is making me cold, got to keep walking.… Read the rest

Top of Namsan mountain 5:40 pm

I am on the top of the mountain, leaning on the wall of what must have been a fortress looking out over the city in the dwindling sunset. The darkening sky overhead shifts to a paler blue close to the horizon where it meets a band of yellow then one of orange. Below, the city lies in a sort of shadowy dusk. Some skeletal trees stretches their black fingers upwards, contrasting the colorful sky. The big group of women who were with me on the way up seem to have disappeared except for a few vainly trying to catch some … Read the rest

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