The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

Category Asia

The Big Indochina Trip: Vinh Moc tunnels and abandoned amusement park

Hue is very close to the old demilitarized zone so there are a few military remnants in the area. The most interesting for me were the Vinh Moc tunnels, about 100 kilometers north of Hue, where an entire fishing village went under ground. On the way out, I happened upon a big communist monument of some kind. There wasn’t any information in English available but it looked cool with the big flag and everything. I will say though that the 40000 Dong entrance fee was a bit steep for a five minute visit.

The communist monument 

Compared to the Cu … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: Imperial Hue

When I  woke up this morning it was raining heavily. I waited until it had settled down a bit then got on the bike and headed to my next goal, Hue city. 

I’m sure I’ve said it before but it  bears repeating, this is a really gorgeous country to ride through. Sure,  sometimes you will be on the noisy and crowded expressway racking up the miles, but as soon as you get into the countryside,  the landscape becomes really photogenic. So, despite the rain, I stopped a few times to take pictures 

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The Big Indochina Trip: Hoi An and My Son 

Hoi An is a very relaxed city, compared to Ho Chi Minh it barely counts as a city at all. The main draw is the ancient town, a fairly large area of small, old houses that counts as a UNESCO world heritage. It’s a bit touristic as almost all the houses have been turned into shops and restaurants, and most of the people you meet there are foreigners, but it’s very atmospheric none the less. I spent a good portion of my first day in Hoi An just walking around randomly in the old town. It felt really nice to … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: hauling ass to Hoi An

Before this trip started I made a rule for myself that I should  not ride more than 200 kilometers a day. Today I broke that rule by a large margin. You see, in order to get more time in Hoi An and Hue I needed  to get there as fast as possible, so instead of staying over in some beach town I decided to go as far north as I could in a day, hoping I could reach Hoi An by nightfall. My backup plan,  in case I got too tired, was to take a hotel in Quang Ngai.

 I … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: from Dalat to the coast 

There are a few sights inside Daly city but the main draw is the surrounding nature. The general recommendation for seeing said nature is to join an easy rider motorcycle tour, but since I have my own bike I decided to combine the motorbike tour with the ride to my next stop for the night. Before setting off however, I went sightseeing in the city, starting with Hang Nga Crazy House. It’s a building with very unique architecture and while the architect still lives there you can walk around and explore it.

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The Big Indochina Trip: The road to Dalat 

The goal for the day was to reach Dalat up in the highlands and since it is fairly close to Mui Ne I decided to take it easy and do some sightseeing along the way. I started with the Po Shanu Cham Towers, three ancient brick towers west of Mui Ne that are still used for worshipping. I know I will see lots of old temples during my travels but these were the first.

I found out yesterday that there are actually two large sand dunes in Mui Ne, the red one and the … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: Mui Ne

This morning I set on the 200 kilometer slog to my next goal along the way north, the small beach town Mui Ne. Geting out of Ho Chi Minh city was hell, first I got lost and when I finally found the way it turned out to be a highway where motorbikes can’t go so I had to find a way around. Once I got out on the main road though, things got better and by the afternoon I was riding through lush landscapes with mountains in the far distance.

Photo from one of my rest stops

Sometime around three … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: Can Tho floating market

The main draw in Can Tho is the Cai Rang floating market. I think it’s possible to do a one day hit and run tour from HCMC but the market opens before sunrise so to get the most of it you should be there early. You also need a boat to be able to see the market up close, I took the easy way out and booked a tour via my hotel. As it turned out it was just me, the guide and the driver in a small wooden skiff with an outboard. Our boat was a bit slower than … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: Cu Chi Tunnels then off to the Mekong delta 

When I woke up today it was pouring rain, a real monsoon shower, but I packed up my stuff anyway and waited for the rain to let up. Once it did I set out to the main goal of the day, the Cu Chi Tunnels. This is a vast network of tunnels used by the Vietnamese to hide, first from the French and later from the Americans. According to the guide they are about 250 kilometers long and they even reach Cambodia. 

It sounds really cool when you read about it and I was really excited to go there, I … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: Ho Chi Minh City

Today was my first full day of tourism, and I aimed for the main tourist spots of HCMC starting with the War Remnants Museum which has a small but good collection of tanks and aircraft outside and a whole lot of photos and such inside. Hollywood has produced I don’t know how many films about the Vietnam war (or the American war as they say here) and even though many of them have been anti war, they have all been from an American perspective; it’s interesting  to get the Vietnamese perspective on it. I highly recommended it for anyone with … Read the rest

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