The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

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Niseko Grand Hotel onsen, 8:34 pm

The warm, slightly murky greenish water envelopes me, steam rising from its surface, billowing into the cool air. There is snow all around me, large drifts on the ground, clinging to the branches of trees, a large clump atop a conical rock in front of me. Slightly to the left, sticking out of the water like a small island, is an ornamental Japanese stone lantern. A single, street light style lamp bathes the scene in warm yellow light. Large snowflakes float lazily down to melt as soon as they touch my skin… Total relaxation.… Read the rest

Zhonghua road, 8:14 am

It’s just pouring down, heavy drops patter incessantly on the visor of my helmet and although I’m dressed for battle with elements, rain jacket, rain pants, and big floppy shoe covers that are impossible to walk in, there is till considerable discomfort. The drops sting my lips every time I accelerate, my gloves are already wet through and through, and there is a coldness in my crotch which I sincerely hope isn’t water soaking through my pants. Sometimes, on a good road in good weather, riding a motorcycle can be thoroughly enjoyable; swooping smoothly from turn to turn as you carve your way through a … Read the rest

Hehuanshan pass, 5:51 pm

We are driving on a narrow, winding road high in the central Taiwan mountains when the mist around us suddenly becomes thicker. Visibility immediately decreases to just a few meters, it’s like driving through milk. Then, out of the fog, looms the lights of a truck barring down on us. I swerve to the side and it passes by us with space to spare but it’s a heart stopping moment. Driving on this kind of road, in the dark, through thick fog is no child’s play.… Read the rest

Gong pitan waterfall, 3:29 pm

I’m lying on a flat rock at the bottom of a big waterfall, gazing at the sky, the canopy of the jungle on two sides, and some fluffy clouds floating leisurely by. I dip my feet in the river, letting the cool water flow over them, and in the background I can hear the swooshing of the fall and the mellow gurgling of the creek among the boulders. Complete peacefulness.… Read the rest

Wangong harbor 8:44 pm

I walk around the corner, leave the noise of the restaurant behind me, the voices of playing children trail off as the darkness envelopes me. I look out over the harbor, there are four street lights on the pier opposite me, illuminating the surface of the water, forming orange blotches that shimmer in the darkness. A breeze ruffles the waters surface, making the orange blotches dance with a waving motion, and whispering softly in my ear. I didn’t realize until now how loud the dinner was, now I feel at peace.… Read the rest

Road in Nantou 5:11 pm

We are rolling down a road that snakes down the mountain, bamboo forests on both sides. Lances of warm yellow light from the low hanging sun cut through the forest, gilding the slender stalks of the bamboo and making the leaves glow golden. An insignificant moment of beauty but precious all the same.… Read the rest

Beauty Soup hotsprings 4:54 pm

The water envelopes me in its warmth, steam rising up from its surface, mingling with the mists that swirl around the surrounding mountains. Little cascades of water are thrown into the air wherever the the rain drops hit the otherwise smooth surface of the pool. The rain falls on my head and shoulders, little spikes of cold mixing in with the heat of the water, the feeling is quite sublime – total relaxation.… Read the rest

Road 31, 8:39pm

I’m speeding along towards the high speed rail station, the meter showing 80 kilometers an hour and a cool wind washing over me. Suddenly the buildings on my right give way to a large open space, and I wonder for a moment how that can be, before realizing that it is most likely one of the fish farming ponds. I take a longer look, and sure enough, beyond a low concrete barrier, the perfectly smooth surface of the water spreading out towards the horizon. It reflects the infinity of space above, so dark blue that it’s almost back. At the far … Read the rest

Minzu road, 11:28 pm

The air is cool, not fully cold, just…crisp. The sky is clear, save for a few veils of cloud too thin to catch any of the light pollution from the city. It’ dark enough that I can see a few stars, Orion’s Belt off to the south. A brilliant silver white moon is competing with the street lights. It’s quiet, just the sound of a few cars in the distance and the wind rustling the leaves of a nearby palm tree. It feels wrong, like I’m not in Hsinchu anymore, it feels… like Gotheburg in September.… Read the rest

Changan road, 5:48 pm

Twilight, just before dusk, the sky overcast. It doesn’t seem to matter if I have my headlights on or not. I switch them off for a second, I see just fine without them, then turn them back on for safety. There is a continuous drizzle, almost unnoticeable when standing still but speed compacts it, I can feel a constant spray on the lower half of my face and the spattering on my visor blurs my vision and diffuses incoming light into glittering halo’s around its sources. It is cold, my face feels numb and a few moments without gloves is … Read the rest

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