The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

Tag Vang Vieng

The Big Indochina Trip: climbing and tubing 

When the riverside bars closed down  in 2012 the action sports companies moved in. Nowadays Vang Vieng is crawling with tour operators selling day tours of kayaking, ziplineing, terrain buggy driving and parasailing. One of my favorite sports is rock climbing so for me that was the natural choice. I booked a one day tour and as it turned out it was just me and the guide which was good for me. Since I’ve climbed before he gave me a few minutes reminder of how to belay then off we went. I belayed while he climbed lead and set the … Read the rest

River Bar, 3:38 pm

I’m on a small wooden platform covered by a thin mat, reclining under a parasol with my back against the low railing. Behind me the brownish green river, occasionally a couple of kayakers float past. In front of me, on a larger wooden platform, is a bunch of twenty something Europeans in their swimsuits, dancing and drinking Beer Lao. All the while techno music is booming from the speakers, filling the otherwise blissful landscape with its noise.… Read the rest

Nam song river, 3:15 pm

I’m floating down the river in an old tractor inner tube, it has been yellow but the paint has faded and peeled off from use and the black rubber is showing through. The water is a muddled brownish green color and the sun, already sinking lower, is sparkling on the surface like liquid silver. I lean back, raise my feet out of the water and relax. In front of me the spectacular Laotian nature, karst cliffs rising up out the jungle, and behind me the other tubers, all swimming suit clad bodies and yellow tubes, floating lazily along with me.… Read the rest

Mojito Bar, 1:24 pm

The bar is filling up with white people,  all in their twenties and all in their swimwear. There are only a few locals here, working as bar staff  but even there, a couple of falang have moved in. In front of me are two tables where people are playing beer pong, throwing orange ping pong balls into each other’s cups of beer. The mood is all party, no matter if people are drinking  dancing or just chilling out.… Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: Back on the road

Many of the people I’ve met on this trip seem to be masters of the ancient mystical art of hanging out as they get stuck in places for days. I am but an amateur of the art, and after staying a few days in one city I start to feel restless. So, eye healed and the major sights of Luang Prabang ticked off from the list, I set out towards Vang Vieng. I was there back in 2009 so didn’t have to come back but I wanted to see how much has changed since then. You see, back then Vang … Read the rest

The road to Vang Vieng, 12:14 pm 

It’s like I’m not in Laos anymore, the mountains are still green but they are covered in grass rather than jungle. Here and there dark grey, almost black cliffs shoot up, bare rock against the blue sky. The lower slopes are covered in a kind of tall grass with white plumes at the top that makes it look like some giant has shaken out an old feather pillow over the hills.… Read the rest

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