I have entered the mist, it swirls around me almost completely blocking my view. Though I can hardly see them, I know that to my right is the cliff edge and to my left a wall of rock rising sharply upwards; ahead of me I can just make out a few meters of the road and that’s it. I lean forward and peer into the milky whiteness, hoping I can spot oncoming obstacles in time….… Read the rest
The goal for the day was to reach Dalat up in the highlands and since it is fairly close to Mui Ne I decided to take it easy and do some sightseeing along the way. I started with the Po Shanu Cham Towers, three ancient brick towers west of Mui Ne that are still used for worshipping. I know I will see lots of old temples during my travels but these were the first.
I found out yesterday that there are actually two large sand dunes in Mui Ne, the red one and the … Read the rest
I’m truly in the countryside now, a few houses here and there but otherwise not a sign of civilization. The road winds leisurely through a landscape so green you almost can’t believe it, trees and bushes of all kinds on both sides. In the distance lie low hills like camel humps. The road surface is in a state of disrepair, I bump along at a slow pace, keeping a sharp lookout for potholes that are so big I would probably go flying over the handlebars if I hit one with speed. I’d like to pay more attention to the landscape … Read the rest
This morning I set on the 200 kilometer slog to my next goal along the way north, the small beach town Mui Ne. Geting out of Ho Chi Minh city was hell, first I got lost and when I finally found the way it turned out to be a highway where motorbikes can’t go so I had to find a way around. Once I got out on the main road though, things got better and by the afternoon I was riding through lush landscapes with mountains in the far distance.

Sometime around three … Read the rest
I’ve finally left the city behind, there are trees on the side of the road and even some mountains in the distance. I’ve hit my second tropical rain shower of the day; my poncho will keep me dry but it’s big and flowing and flies in the wind, flapping out behind me like I’m freaking Batman or something. Theme song of the day: Na na na na na na Batman… Read the rest
An arrow straight strip of asphalt stretches through the lush landscape out towards the tree line at the horizon. The sun shines brightly from an azure sky filled with dramatic clouds. The speedometer shows a clean 80 kph, ah, I feel so alive.… Read the rest
The sun is shining, the rain seems to have dried up completely; the road is straight, only one way forward, with trees and small shops by the side, I keep the throttle at a steady 60 km/h. The theme to Smoky and the Bandit keeps playing in the back of my mind as I reflect on my first day of riding in Vietnam: my bag falling off the luggage rack, the rickety wooden bridge, the water buffalo by the road side. So many impressions just in one day…… Read the rest
Today was the day we did the actaul crossing. When we woke up this morning it was raining but by the time we left the hotel it had cleared up. We rode out of Tianxiang, and while the landscape was plenty dramatic I was so happy to be on the road we didn’t really stop to take photos.

Riding a motorcycle on a road like this is a powerful experience. You feel like you are one with the machine and that you and the bike are one with nature. There is only the … Read the rest
Today we set off towards Taroko Gorge which will be our starting point for the actual crossing.

A few kilometers out from Hualien city we went down to a secluded beach. When I was younger I would have jumped into the water directly but now I didn’t feel like it. I still took off my shoes, rolled up my trousers and just stood in the water’s edge, letting the waves wash over my feet. By now this has become a kind of ritual for me.

After that we headed … Read the rest
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